In due course, the page will be incorporated into this one, making this an online manual.

If you building up from a kit, the following initial information might not be applicable. It will depend upon whether or not you've purchased a bare metal kit or not.

If you've purchased a bare metal kit, it is likely that you will be sourcing all the aluminium yourself and making your own components. You can of course purchase all pre-cut panels ready to fit, including louvred bonnet sides, detachable louvred front panels, and if a beetleback kit, louvred sides. You can also purchase a one piece aluminium floor.

If you've purchased a Kit 001, which is a powder coated chassis kit, this also includes all pre-cut aluminium panels, aluminium floor pan, louvred bonnet halves, louvred front panels, louvred side panels and bulkhead panels with opening hatches. All riv nuts will have been pre-fitted.

Prior to any work, you ought to have familiarised yourself with the download it here, or buy an actual manual directly from VOSA.

Back to the bare metal chassis kit:

1) Any riv nuts will have to be fitted by the builder.

2) All panels will have to be cut by the builder.

You will have to decide upon chassis finish, either paint or powder coating. In effect, only the engine bay will be on display. You can decide how you wish to approach your build, but there are certain ideas/tips which you ought to follow.

a) It is a very good idea to carry out an initial build up of all or most components, then tear it all down and do it again. This might sound a little strange, however, if you encounter problems or you wish to make changes at any stage, you can do so and practice prior to the final build up. This might be more applicable perhaps if you are building up from a bare metal chassis.

b) Do not bond and rivet the floor pan to the chassis until you are absolutely ready and you've trial fitted many if not all components. Remember, once you've bonded on the floor pan, you will not be able to drill into the lower chassis rails easily for fitment of panels/riv nuts.

c) It is easier to fit the gear change mechanism into a bare chassis prior to the engine.

d) The chassis rear bulkhead central panel will have been drilled to accept the prop shaft rear bearing, and the 8mm hand brake cable adjuster.

e) Do not bond and rivet the side panels to the chassis until you've trial fitted and finally fitted all internal components. It is much easier to lean through the open sides rather than over the top of the chassis, no matter how high you have the chassis during the build.

f) Likewise, it makes sense to trial fit the swing arm/final drive/rear brake assembly prior to bonding and fitting the internal rear side panels. Note, however, it then becomes very difficult to bond and rivet these internal side panels once the rear wheel assembly has been fitted. At least though by trial fitting at the outset, you will know how and where all rear wheel components fit. This is very important regarding your flexible brake lines, as these should be fitted prior to fitting the rear wheel assembly too.