This page is for ideas and tips that we think might be of use in general, and will be updated periodically. It will eventually be incorporated very shortly into the MG3 kit construction manual.
1) If you are building a kit or about to build a kit, particularly in the UK, it is essential that you obtain a copy of the MSVA manual. The manual is downloadable here
Motorcycle Single Vehicle Approval Inspection Manual There are also alternative documents about SVA in general, which are not applicable to three wheelers and of course we shall give you guidance, but the official manual is the bible.
2) For fixing aluminium panels prior to final riveting, position and hold with " Cleko" clamps. They can be found via the link below. We use 3.2mm clamps, and don't forget to order the setting pliers. A supplier of "cleko" clamps is LAS Aerospace www.lasaero.com you might find they general catalogue very useful. www.lasaero.com/article/a-skin-pins you'll want the 1/8inch (3.2mm) types, coloured copper.
3) We use a lot of riv-nuts also known as nut-serts. We use M5 and M6 riv-nuts and recommend torque control for steel not aluminium riv-nuts. Now when it comes to riv-nut setting tools, only the best will do! We've broken small hand held plier types, both Gesipa and Blue Point/Snap-On, neither are man enough for M6 size riv-nuts. We use a long handled pair by Sealey, and a magnificent ratchet riv-nut tool called MASTERFIX MFX 612S, and it can get into very tight spots where other setting tools simply can't! Masterfix tools can be purchased from Primary Fasteners www.prifast.co.uk
6) Do not fit the one piece aluminium floor until all holes have been drilled in the tunnel side rails. If you do fit the floor first, you will have to use 1 inch aluminium angle riveted to the tops of the tunnel lower rails, as you will be unable to get a drill, even a small right angled one, into position for drilling.
7) We supply the one piece floor loosely fitted anyway on 11 M6 bolts and rivnuts, so you can indeed lift the whole assembly on to trestles with the floor in place, and lower the floor gently in places by removing appropriate M6 bolts to enable you drill holes for the tunnel sides and rear pannier sides as shown above. The floor is a useful "shelf" at this stage, but remember 5) don't finally bond/rivet the floor until you are absolutely ready.
Click on the pictures below to enlarge. Rivet the floor at 50mm centres all around using 4.8mm rivets.
Hagon rear shock absorbers click left to go to this page.
We cut and supply panels to box in the rear wheel. These panels are bonded and riveted together (by you, if you've purchased a kit). There is a removable top and two removable side inspection hatches.
You can see the top hatch in
position, and the front lower hatch is missing. The rear lower hatch is
permanently riveted into place. Note the cleko pins holding the panels
together, and the pre-inserted riv nuts. naturally, where you see cleko
pins, and in every other hole shown (except riv nuts), you will be
bonding and riveting. You can see from this shot that the rear wheel can
be fully enclosed. You have excellent access to the swing arm bolts via
the foremost lower hatches, and you will have access to the rear shock
absorber top bolts by removing the riv nut held upper hatch, you can
then lower the swing arm for maintenance, wheel removal etc. You will
need to mastic around very small joints in places to fully water proof
this area. The aluminium panels are shown PC2...poly coated both
sides, you should pull this off prior to bonding and riveting.
These two views again show top and lower side access. Note that the upper seat belt anchorage points are now outside the wheel area and cannot be covered in road filth. Ensure when fitting seat belts, that from this upper anchorage point that the left bolted belt goes to the right side of the car and the right bolted belt goes to the left side of the car.
Do not finally bond and rivet any of these panels into place and this includes the floor, until you have at least trial fitted all mechanical components, and that you are happy with fit-up.
Incidentally, and this is a very important point; the barrelback model in particular has the best luggage carrying capacity of any three wheeler.
Trim and modifications:
Click on the pictures below to enlarge. It is necessary to have a radius at the right angled joint of the vertical sides and the horizontal decking. This can be achieved, by simple rubber or plastic rounded trim "Morris Minor wing trim" would suffice. better looking trim is the aluminium "J" section strip available from your local branch of Aalco or Blackburns for example, or other specialist aluminium suppliers. We fit this aluminium trim using 5mm socket button head screws into countersunk riv-nuts. Note the shape of the end nearest the scuttle. This is obtained by placing the section under the scuttle, drawing around it, then shaping it with a metal grit sanding disc attached to a grinder. We use a Proxxon miniature grinder for this
New chassis/body modifications:
Click on the pictures below to enlarge. The front panel each side is now removable. We weld a battery holder frame to the left front chassis side which accommodates a 038 size battery. The shaped front panel is held in place by M6 socket button head screws into concealed riv-nuts. These panels are now louvred with 6 vertical 200mm louvres, which looks very vintage, and are now standard in our kits.
New barrel-back rear panel.
Click on the pictures below to enlarge. Rather than use a plywood rear panel, we now use a 3mm thick laser cut aluminium panel which has considerably better fixing properties, and can be polished of course. The new rear lighting panel sits the rear lights at the correct height for MSVA regs. The standard lighting board now has Aero Cycle Cars cut into it.
Replica Morgan three wheeler kits and cars, trikes, specialist sports cars and kit manufacturers of the original BRA CX3 MG3 & CV3 cycle cars
www.aerocyclecars.com www.aero-merlin.com www.veetwintrikes.com