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Build Manual


updated 18/10/2010

+44 (0)1273 843749
+44 (0)7976 312058 (mobile)

the official manufacturers of the BRA CX3 MG3 & CV3 cycle cars

three Wheelers...the inspiration is unashamedly Morgan!

CV3 Build Manual.

This is a temporary manual. It is the original BRA CV3 build manual with a few deletions and changes. In due course it will be re-written.

Please read this manual thoroughly before you commence the building of your CV3 in order to familiarise yourself with all of the various procedures. Many builders have produced very nice cars by simply following the instructions contained within this manual. Please build it to the highest possible standards, cheapness is not the best route ever. You are building a car that must be representative of the make, so please remember that your interpretation might deter another from buying a car in the future.

This manual is continually added to and amended, so if you find any errors, omissions, or think anything would be worth adding, we would be extremely grateful if you would let us know and then we can include the amendments for the benefit of future builders.

Left and Right refers to the view as you sit in the unfinished (or finished) car.

Even if you haven't built a kit car before, you'll find building relatively straightforward, needing no more than the normal tools found in the garage and shed of most DIY enthusiasts and mechanics.


You need from your donor:

Engine gearbox, with all ancillaries, clutch, starter, alternator, carburettor, etc.
Complete rolling chassis with suspension, steering column, shock absorbers, brakes, wheels, etc.
Pedal box and hydraulic brake master cylinder.
Exhaust system (if not using one of our stainless steel systems).
Gear lever assembly.
Handbrake lever and assembly, including ratchet bracket from under dash (cut from donor).
Wiring, instruments and voltage regulator.
Ignition coil and leads.
Headlamps and support bar.
Seat belts.
Fuel sender unit (if required)

You need to obtain from a car breaker's yard:

An Austin Allegro steering column including universal joint section (the bottom section), or we can supply as an extra. The splined top bit is needed if you wish to get rid of the Citroen 3 hole steering wheel flange in order to fit a splined steering wheel.

You supply to us for modification:

(We modify your items - they are not exchange. Cost for this is included in our standard basic kit. Please supply these in a clean condition, as though ready for painting. (i.e. No oil, paint or under seal)

Both rear suspension trailing arms with brake drum/hub fitted (ready cut as the illustration). Do not remove  hub and bearing yet.
Allegro steering column complete with U/J (bottom) section.
Citrśn steering column inner and outer.
Rear axle cross tube to which we weld a small brake pipe bracket. Not needed if using Citrśn brake pipes. No need    to remove bearings.
Two (i.e. both) rear suspension eye bolts.
Fan pulley with fan removed (trash the fan).Both front hub uprights (with bearings removed) to which we weld substantial mudguard brackets (We can remove the bearings for you at a nominal cost. You may wish to renew them anyway).

NB When cutting donor parts, use a hacksaw not an angle grinder. A grinder removes too much metal.

We supply in our standard kit:

Body frame with all aluminium and alloy side panels cut to approx. fit.
GRP rear tail section (boot lid), nosecone and scuttle.
Aluminium hinged bonnet with stainless steel hinge.
Ignition coil mounting bracket.
Steel fuel tank (or stainless steel, subject to availability).
Pedal box mounting brackets, fitted to body frame.
Spare wheel carrier, fitted to body frame.
Rear tail panel.
Scuttle and steering column support frame, fitted to body frame.
Handbrake mounting plate, fitted to body frame.
Gear lever mounting bracket, fitted to body frame.
GRP cycle wings and stays.
Wing stay mounting brackets, fitted to hub uprights.
Headlamp brackets, fitted to body frame.
Seat belt mountings, fitted to body frame.
Badge bar.
Brackets fitted for use if using motor cycle stalk type indicators.
Throttle return spring bracket.
Modified single rear suspension arm.
Modified steering column.
Metal tube to extend gear lever.
Metal bar to extend handbrake lever.
Lengthened rear suspension eye bolts.
New, special length, clutch cable.
Modified fan pulley.

Notes on collection of your CV3 Kit.

The kit will fit in a long wheel base Transit type van.

Please bring adequate rope, blankets for padding etc.

We cannot deliver kits via carrier as most of it will be damaged on arrival! We sometimes deliver kits using our own transport.

A commonly asked question is "how big is the kit:

The chassis dimensions are as follows: Length 104 inches

Width 41 inches

Height (inc. dash support) 18 inches

Remember also that there will be the aluminium side panels (2.5M long X 12 inches wide) and other aluminium panels along with the various GRP parts and any additional parts which you order. If you are using a large van you can tie the larger GRP panels in place on the body frame.

Donor parts:

We can arrange for a carrier to collect your donor parts and bring them to us for modification. This way you can collect the modified parts with your kit.

General notes on building your car.


There's no point in going over how to paint a car here. There have been many books written on the subject and a lot of advice is available from people who have already built cars.

Without a doubt, you will obtain the best looking car if you leave painting until last. Build your car completely up to driving stage, strip it down completely, have it painted and then simply put it back together. You will have to paint the chassis and body frame however before fastening body panels in place

By building, dismantling, painting and then reassembling, you will avoid scratches on the paint work while you hang over the side of the car wondering where a particular part should go. If you drill a hole in the wrong place you can fill it in and will not be left with odd holes in your nicely painted bodywork.

Obviously doing it this way is more work, but the end result is usually worth it.

Paint Primer.

GRP and Aluminium panels should always be primed with a suitable etch primer. Etch primer is acid based and should therefore be used with caution and the appropriate safety equipment, mask, etc. Your paint supplier should be able to advise you.


When drilling GRP, use a drill with the sharp edge removed and you will avoid chipping the gel coat off the moulding and thus avoid having a ragged hole.

Stick a piece of masking tape over the position of the hole and mark with a pencil. The tape will help avoid the drill slipping and leaving a mark across your nice new moulding.

Before painting GRP mouldings (and aluminium) make sure you flat down well with wet and dry paper to give the etch primer a good surface to adhere to and to remove any "flash" lines (these are the lines left during the moulding process and are particularly evident on the nose cone).

You must be sure to remove any traces of mould release agent left on the moulding otherwise the primer will not stick properly.

Use largest possible washers on GRP (and Aluminium) to prevent screws and bolt heads pulling through.


Aluminium is soft. When marking aluminium, to drill for example, use a pencil or felt tip pen not a scriber. If you use a sharp scriber then you will need to use a lot of elbow grease and wet and dry paper to remove the scribing mark prior to painting to avoid it showing through your paint. Aluminium panels dent easily so treat them with kid gloves. Before painting aluminium (and GRP) make sure you flat down well with wet and dry paper to give the etch primer a good surface to adhere to.


You may wish to try and use stainless steel fasteners wherever possible. The extra cost is well worth it as they will continue to look good almost indefinitely. Stainless steel fasteners are available unpolished or polished. We do not believe the extra cost of polished to be justified as "unpolished" still look good. Do not, however, use stainless steel fasteners on highly stressed or suspension components as the tensile strength is only half that of high tensile steel. In these situations use high tensile bolts. Zinc plated bolts look good when new but soon lose their new look.

An alternative is to use chrome plated bolts, which may sound expensive but can be done relatively cheaply if you take them to your local plating shop and tell him to plate them as they are without polishing. This means that you will still have the little numbers on the heads but the bolts will be a lot more corrosion resistant. The little plastic insert in self locking nuts discolours when chrome plated but this does not affect their efficiency. You can of course use stainless steel washers and spring washers on suspension parts as even here they not stressed.

Do not use stainless steel fasteners to fasten aluminium, as you will get electrolytic action between the stainless steel and the aluminium, and corrosion will result. Use Zinc or Chrome plated steel or brass. We tend to use anti-seize compound wherever possible to make sure that any assemblies can easily be taken apart for future maintenance.

We tend to use anti-seize compound wherever possible to make sure that any assemblies can easily be taken apart for future maintenance. This is not expensive and is available from your local motorists shop.

In between ordering your kit and collecting it, you will have lots of time to play around with the dirty bits of the operation and to make them into clean bits. You've got plenty of time for reconditioning wheel bearings, brakes etc. and for painting suspension and steering parts etc. Please refer to the appropriate workshop manuals such as Haynes or Autobooks for details of the various assemblies.  Beware of soaking rubber parts for long periods as they often swell. Cellulose thinners is good for a final rinse, but is very highly inflammable. Use thinners and petrol at your peril. Avoid thinners and solvents on your skin. Use barrier cream and suitable gloves.

As a finish for the dirty bits, there is nothing to beat powder coating. You will find the names and addresses of powder coaters under "Stove Enamellers" in your Yellow Pages. Please don't confuse "Stove" Enamelling with "Vitreous" Enamelling and "Powder Coating", (Vitreous Enamelling is the stuff found on gas and electric cookers, it chips when knocked as it is glass based). Powder Coating is the one you want. It is available in gloss, satin and textured finishes and is very hard. The cost of this is quite reasonable, and it should include shot blasting the parts to bare metal immediately prior to coating. Most competent powder coaters will mask off axles and machined surfaces etc. If in doubt specify exactly what you want and perhaps give a sketch.

Most coaters have black going through the process all the time. If you want a colour then it usually takes longer and may be slightly more expensive.

NB. Contrary to common belief, standard single coat powder coating is not the fantastic corrosion preventer everyone thinks, as it is micro-porous. It is necessary to use a 2 coat system which has a zinc based primer, which is then top coated. Expensive though. You could always use the powder coating as a good base for painting over. Roughen the surface slightly and apply paint. You only need to paint the parts you will see on the finished car. .

If you decide to paint suspension parts etc. yourself (which you will have to with the likes of track rod ends, ball joints etc.) then you might like to use "Smoothrite" in brush or aerosol. You will need to clean the components thoroughly before painting. Shot blasting is ideal, but can be a little harsh. These remove paint and rust back to bare metal but don't remove the metal. Be sure to use goggles and a face mask. Ear defenders or ear plugs are a good idea too.

When painting ball joints and track rod ends either remove the rubber gaiters before painting or mask the gaiter off. Small amounts of paint in the joint are harmless. If you remove the gaiter you can pack a little extra grease in if you wish.

CHOOSING A CITRŚN DONOR. If the chassis is rotten, don’t worry as after market chassis are reasonably priced(call us for details of our own replacement high quality chassis). Fortunately, the mechanics are virtually unburstable, so very little to worry about here.

Remove battery, fuel tank and fuel pipes before dismantling anything else.

When it comes to the bits you’ve taken off - if in doubt- keep it.


Modifying Citrśn chassis and "bits".

The rearmost projecting arms (these used to be under the boot floor on the donor) are not required. Cut these from the chassis about 30 mm behind the rearmost rear axle cross tube securing bolt. (See illustration (right) below) Block the chassis ends. You can use expanding foam for this which is available from DIY shops. Clean wet foam using cellulose thinners. Dry foam can be cut and sanded. At the front, the splash guard "wings" can be removed from the front rails of the Citrśn chassis.

None of these modifications are required on our own replacement chassis as it is manufactured specifically for a three wheeler and is ready to go.

The brackets on the front suspension arms which contact the bump stops must be removed. (See illustration (left) below)




The rear arm needs to be cut before it is given to us for modification. Please cut the arm as shown (see illustration). Do not remove the hub and bearing at this stage as we require these to remain in place in order that we may secure the arm into our welding jig.

It is important that any donor parts given to us for modification are clean and free from paint, under seal and rust.


Cut the rear eye bolts as shown (see illustration below). These are lengthened by us to enable the ride height to be adjusted correctly. Again, please supply to us in a clean state in order that they can be welded.

Preparing the CV3 body frame and chassis.

Remember steel rusts! The best time to treat the chassis and body frame is now, before you do any fitting. There are many rust prevention treatments available from motorists shops, paint suppliers, etc. We favour galvanising and then painting the bits which are seen when the car is complete. Remember though that galvanising adds some weight to the car. If you have purchased our replacement chassis you have either ordered it galvanised or raw steel. If raw steel you may wish to paint the chassis to prevent rust. We recommend having the chassis shot blasted and primed with an etch primer. A suitable top coat of paint can then be applied. The same applies to the body frame. We can have the frame galvanised at reasonable cost before you collect your kit. This ensures good protection and is not expensive.

If you wish to paint a galvanised body frame or chassis you must first apply an acid etch solution such as "Mordant T wash". This prepares the galvanised finish ready for painting. If you do not do this any paint applied will peel off within a very short time. Apply the solution with a brush. The galvanised finish will turn black. Allow to dry then wipe off or rinse with clean water. When dry apply a good quality primer and then a top coat. Remember, you only have to paint the bits which are seen when the car is finished. The galvanising process usually leaves some lumpy residues on the metal. These are soft zinc and are easily removed with a file or similar tool. Lumps must be removed from parts of the frame where aluminium panels fit to ensure they lie flat.

Attaching body frame to chassis.

The body frame is attached centrally to the chassis between the front and rear axle tubes. There is very little room to manoeuvre the frame around so it is sufficient to say that it is mounted centrally. Drill 8mm or 8.5mm (better) diameter holes through the 25 mm flat floor reinforcing sections to line up with the holes in the Citrśn or replacement chassis.

If we have modified the steering column to include a modified upper Westfield column and the lower 2CV lower column, (which is most likely) then it is essential that you line this up as you simultaneously line up the body frame on the Citroen chassis.

You can use the original Citrśn M7 bolts and captive nuts but we always use M8 x 25mm long stainless steel bolts, washers and nylock nuts as they are easier to disassemble if ever you need to remove them. The body frame must be bolted down before fitting engine side frames and panels, otherwise the engine bay side frames and their aluminium panels may not line up with the body sides.

We use silicone sealant between the chassis and body frame in order to prevent the ingress of water. If you are thinking about removal of the frame in the future and think the silicone may cause you a problem try this…

Apply silicone to the chassis and spread out evenly with a brush. Spray the silicone with WD40 (or similar) and place body frame in position. This way you still get a good seal but the frame can be easily removed in the future.

Drilling side and other body panels.

(Read in conjunction with next section)

We recommend that you only drill/fit the body panels after the body frame is securely fixed to the chassis. This way should the frame flex slightly during fitting the panel fit will not be affected.

NB Do not rivet the body side panels to the rearmost 21" length of the bottom rear tube rail otherwise the curved rear will look awful. (see illustration, next page)

You will have to paint the body frame before finally fastening body panels in place. The side panels are attached with 3.2mm (1/8") diameter pop rivets, or we use M4 x 12mm button head socket screws, but it does mean tapping all the holes which is a pain, although a tap in a cordless drill, set to low speed, works very well indeed! You could also try countersunk rivets and fill the holes for a really smooth finish. The panels are further secured with panel adhesive which is available from a car paint supplier.

A variety of these adhesives are on the market and you can obtain advice on the best one for your use from a car paint supplier.

Use panel adhesive not sealer. Sealer will not fix the panels in place properly. Sealer can be used to seal around floors, panels, etc.

If it does not say "adhesive" on the tube it is not adhesive in the tube! The adhesive is squeezed onto the frame and the panel placed onto it. The rivets go through the "sandwich".

We fix rivets (or M4 bolts) at approx. 100mm centres. The actual spacing is down to you but we would recommend no more than 150mm centres.


Don't be tempted to use silicone sealant to secure/seal the panels as paint will not stick to it.

IMPORTANT. Do not rely on mechanical fixing alone. The panels MUST be secured with adhesive.

Place the chassis/body frame on sturdy trestles at a convenient working height.

Make sure that the side panel top rear edge lines up with GRP rear cover section. The

bottom edge of the panel overlaps by approx 25mm, and lies flush with the top edge of the top rail. (See illustration above) The side panel overlaps the tail panel by approx 75mm (3"). Shape the rear bottom of the side panels as shown proper look, a template for this shape is supplied at the end of this manual.

Leave final attaching of panels until as late as possible. It is easier to work on the car without these attached. You can drill them early in your build sequence, ready for fixing later. Fix bulkheads before fixing any other panels. Start fixing all panels from centre. Ensure panels fit flush with body frame rails.

Gradually work alternately to back and front, rather like tightening a cylinder head. We fix all rivets and then remove them as pop rivets are so cheap. When you've finished, remove all the pop rivets and remove the panel. Using a drill held in your hand, and which is much larger than the hole drilled for the pop rivets, (or using a countersink bit), remove the sharp edge both from the chassis hole and both sides of the panel hole.

The plywood tail panel is trimmed to a good fit and bolted to the rear. Again, use some panel adhesive along with the bolts when finally fixing in place. More secure and prevents vibration.

We face the plywood tail panel with some 1mm (or similar) aluminium. The aluminium looks better than ply wood when painted and gives a better over all appearance. Use a strong contact adhesive to fix the aluminium in place. Remember, with contact adhesive you only get one chance. Better to leave the aluminium larger than the ply wood just in case you mis-align when fixing. Fix in place and trim to size when the adhesive has cured.

Builders tips: When you bolt the body frame to the chassis the frame may move slightly. If you have drilled all the holes for the panels they might be slightly out of line when you come to finally fix in place. Fix the frame to the chassis first to avoid any problems here.

There may also be some movement in the chassis when you place the car on it’s wheels on the floor (after building on trestles). Again, consider fixing panels in place only when the car is on it’s wheels and the chassis has had a chance to settle.

On one car we built the space between the main side panels and the engine bay side panels (space of approx. 1mm) closed at the top due to chassis flex once the car was put on the floor. All chassis have some flex in them.

Fitting body panels.

Trim and shape all of the panels first and fix in place on a "dummy run" and remove them.

Cover the tube faces with panel adhesive, place panel in position on the frame and press down. Locate all the pop rivets in position and then set (pop) them. The right amount of adhesive is just enough to fill the gap between the chassis and the panel without it squeezing out all over the place although a little adhesive being squeezed out is a good sign. Excess adhesive can be removed before it cures, with thinners. Panel adhesive starts to cure as soon as it comes into contact with the air. This is why the tubes are always well sealed when you buy them.

The adhesive will start to skin over in only 10 or so minutes. For this reason you should have everything ready to go when you open the tube. Rivets, rivet gun, helping hands, rag with thinners on, etc, etc. Use latex gloves when using the adhesive – it is really difficult to remove from your skin and can be harmful. The adhesive will remain reasonably fresh in the tube for a couple of days but always seal the end up with a screw and some tape to keep the air out.

The adhesive will set in approximately one hour and will be completely cured in 24 hours (subject to type), see instructions on tube. Once cured, the panel is on for good. The adhesive will not go hard but remains slightly flexible when cured. You can paint over the adhesive but check the instructions on the tube to make sure.

Bolt rear tail panel in place at the same time as the side panels. You can then seal between the tail panel and side panels with some adhesive for a neater appearance although panel sealer is usually cheaper and is OK for this.

At this stage you may care to take your mastic gun and put a neat bead of seam sealer between each panel and each body frame member, on the other hand, you may not! Better do it tho’, keeps water out. You can use panel adhesive for this instead of seam sealer although sealer tends to be a lot cheaper and is more effective.

When the adhesive/sealer has cured, gently file away any slight overlap the panels may have using a fine file.

Pedal box , clutch and throttle control.

The pedal box unit, straight from the donor, is fitted into the hole in the front bulkhead and secured with the original Citroen bolts, nuts and washers. Fit this before fitting the steering column. Alternatively, if you try to fit it after the column, you will find that you can’t get it in. (see illustration below)

We supply, as part of our standard kit, a new, special length (longer), clutch cable. This new cable is a direct replacement for the original Citroen cable. Fit the cable just as you would the original. See workshop manual for details.

The original Citroen throttle cable will be too short. We use a new universal throttle cable as these are not expensive and are easily routed around the engine bay. Try your local motorcycle dealer for these. We also use a new choke cable which can be purchased from shows etc. These new choke cables, unlike the Citroen cable, have a flexible inner. (The Citroen is a solid cable). For this reason you will have to fit a small spring on the choke operating lever on the carburettor. (The Citroen choke cable act as a "push-pull" cable). We fit the spring between the choke lever and the oil dip stick tube.

Engine bay side rails.

Due to differences in chassis dimensions and designs, we have made the engine bay sides easier to fit by making each of them in 3 parts: A top rail (sq tube) which bolts to the front bulkhead, a curved tube which carries the badge bar attachment bracket, and an inclined tube which fits inside the curved tube and bolts to the chassis (this also incorporates an indicator attachment bracket suitable for stalk type indicators. Once fitted in place the assembly can be bolted up or welded, as it never needs to come apart again. For engine access the complete side panel assemblies can be removed.

Do not fit these until the body frame is bolted down to the Citroen chassis.

Bolt top side rails loosely in position after drilling mounting holes. The curved tubes slide up the inside of the square tubes and are held in place with a bolt or weld when the position is finalized. The 100 mm long flanges, bolt onto the front of the chassis rails using the innermost chassis holes (some chassis have two sets of holes), with the vertical tube inclined outwards. The round tube goes over this and is secured with a bolt or weld. The bracket for the indicator goes towards the rear of the car.

Loosely bolt the badge bar in place after drilling 8mm holes at each end. The bottom of the round tube may need trimming in order to get the top rails to line up with the main body frame.

(see illustrations below)


Fit the aluminium panels to the side rail assemblies as described on page 23 using panel adhesive and rivets/bolts. Fasten the small alloy angle to the bottom of each side panel so that the toe faces inwards. Use pop rivets/bolts and panel adhesive. The small angle then bolts to the chassis rail side flange using a couple of bolts. You will need to drill a couple of holes for these.

GRP rear bodywork, Scuttle and Nose Cone.

The position of the rear cover moulding is obvious. We use six M6 x 25mm Allen screws with chrome plated flanged heads. Line up the panel with the rear of the chassis sides (see illustration, page 22), clamp in position and when you are happy with its position, drill securing holes. The flat steel reinforcing plates are attached to the GRP each side with 2 bolts through GRP and plate, and 1 bolt through GRP, plate and chassis frame bracket.


The scuttle is attached at it's rearmost to the brackets on the chassis either side of the cockpit with two M6 Allen chrome flange screws as used on the rear section of the body. The scuttle is further secured with approximately six M5/M6 bolts and nuts placed along the length of the bottom flange after drilling suitable holes through the scuttle and the steel mounting flange which is welded to the chassis. We suggest that you clamp the scuttle in place along with the nosecone and trial fit the bonnets before drilling any holes. Once you are happy with all these parts you can then drill and fix in place. (see illustration below)


Mark the base of the nose cone and cut 20mm from base. Yes, we know it’s tempting to leave the nice mounting flanges in place but they really must go, these are for when you are building one of our MG3/CX3 cars.

The nose cone is secured in place using the four small (20mm X 20mm X 20mm) angles supplied with your kit. Drill holes and mount the angles inside the nose cone (we use chrome M5 button head screws) The nose cone is then secured in place with bolts through angles and the mounting flanges which are a part of the side rail assembly. Simple really. (see illustrations below)


Builders tip. Ideally the scuttle and the rear GRP section should be positioned so that they slightly overlap the aluminium side panels. A couple of millimetres is about right. This gives a better appearance to the finished car as the edge of the panels is hidden. Patience is the key. If you take your time positioning the GRP fixing holes you will be rewarded with a better looking car.


Remove the centre hinge pin from the hinge so that you have two halves. Cut the hinge as indicated. (see illustration below) DO NOT CUT THE PIN. These two end "flaps" are used to secure the bonnet and hinge to scuttle and nose cone.


You will need to drill holes in both the nose cone and the scuttle to fix the hinge in place. The hinge is secured using M4 countersunk bolts and nuts. You can drill these holes now (central) or wait until the hinge is fixed to the bonnets and you are happy with the fitting of all the parts.

The bonnet is supplied oversized and folded but not rolled to fit. Final fitting is done with the scuttle and nosecone in place. To make the roll just bend slowly around a pipe about 3-4"dia clamped in a vice or other useful item which you may have lurking around. Some builders have used the likes of a large gas bottle! A bit at a time is the secret. When you are happy with the fit, and after fitting the hinge as explained in the following paragraph, trim the front and rear edges to suit the recesses in the scuttle and nosecone. Fitting the bonnets is not difficult – just time consuming. Allow a full day to fit them.

Rivet the relevant hinge to the return down the centre of each bonnet panel making sure the rivets come together "head to head". (see illustration, next page) Assemble the two halves with hinge pin and slip the two cut pieces, one over each end of the pin. Place the bonnet and hinge assembly on top of the scuttle and nosecone, which are placed loosely in position. Adjust the position of these to get the best fit and clamp in position.

Fasten bonnet hinge in recesses through nose cone at front and scuttle at rear using counter sunk bolts and nuts. Once you have completed the fitting of the bonnets remove them along with the nose cone and store some where safe.

Remember, easily damaged.



Front wheels.

If you are using wire wheels take care when attaching the adapters as they are handed left and right. See the separate info sheet available from Motor Wheel Services (MWS) (telephone number at end) with regard to nuts and attachment of the wire wheel adapters.  Try to get a copy with your wheels.

Chrome wire wheels look wonderful when clean, but silver painted look more period and weather better. They are also half the cost.

You can modify the Citrśn nuts to fit (see illustrations below) and the studs will need shortening so that they are flush with the adapter flange. See MWS leaflet.


Rear wheel and suspension arm.

See workshop manual for details of this.

The rear suspension arms fit on to the rear axle cross tube just as on the original car, but you will notice that one is turned inwards instead of outwards! Both of the original arms must be supplied to us for modification. The non-used arm is modified (cut and capped) and put back in position in case you ever decide to link the two arms to stiffen up the suspension.

The rear wheel simply fits as it did on the 2CV using standard 2CV nuts.

See illustration,  for details of the rear wheel assembly.

Interlinking the rear suspension.

By interlinking the rear suspension you will obtain a better, more comfortable ride. The car will also become more suitable for carrying heavy luggage or towing a trailer. By far the best way to achieve this is to interlink through the rear axle tube. A disc (like a very big washer) is fixed to each end of the axle tube with three small welds and the interlinking tube is passed through. The tube is then fixed to the discs at each end with a couple of small welds. Simple but very effective. The washers replace the plastic end caps which will you have to discard anyway as they will not clear the body frame of your CV3. With the application of some silicone sealer (or similar) the job is tidied up nicely. Yes, we know you then have a job to get at the bearings but you should never have to anyway. Should the time come that you have to get to the bearings you simply have to grind away the small welds which hold the interlinking kit together. For this reason we recommend just three small (1/2 inch) welds on each disc and two on each end of the tube. A kit of parts is available from us to make the job of interlinking easier.


Setting suspension and ride height and Tracking.

The ride height is set by adjusting the eye bolts as detailed in the workshop manual.

About 5-6 inches ground clearance is usually right. Some drivers go as low as 4 inches!

Set the steering tracking to the spec shown in the workshop manual after setting the ride height.

Fitting the optional front anti roll bar system.

The anti roll bar system comes as a complete kit including all mountings, bushes, nuts & bolts, rod end bearings, etc. The system is very simple to fit although there are some mountings which need to be welded onto the front suspension arms. We can do this for you if required. Included in the kit is a check list of components and diagrams showing the exact installation. The anti roll system works very well and offers great improvement in road handling.

NB. There are some alternatives to using our anti roll bar system. Suitable systems can be found on the Citroen Ami and some other cars. Some up rated 2CV and Dyane models also had anti roll bars fitted. Look in your breakers yard. Alternative systems however do not look as good and have also been known to foul on the cycle wings causing some damage. If you are experimenting with alternative systems please bear this in mind to avoid damage.

Fitting the spare wheel.

The spare wheel simply rests in place on the supports at the rear of the car. There are many ways to secure the wheel in place. We suggest using one of the following methods:

1. Use an additional splined wheel adapter and fix this to some bracketry which incorporates a stud (or threaded tube) which will pass through the rear tail panel. Fit a nut (nylock is more secure, wing nut is easier to release) onto the stud inside the boot area and use a standard chrome wheel spinner on the outside.

2. Use the above method but instead of using a hub adapter and spinner you could use a suitably turned boss which again incorporates a tube to go through the rear tail panel. Chrome plated, this looks very nice and is not as expensive as the above method. A suitable turned boss and stud is available from us.

3. The simplest method of all. Cut a small slot near to the top of the rear tail panel (just under the wheel rim) and pass a leather dog collar (or similar) through the slot and around the wheel. Cheap, effective and looks very nice. Very period. Looks good if you also use a leather bonnet strap. You will need a dog collar measuring approximately 26 inches in length although any similar strap will do.


If you are having tyres fitted onto wire spoked wheels you should always have inner tubes fitted.  If the tyre fitter tells you otherwise go somewhere else.  Some tyres have the word “Tubeless” on the side wall.  Still fit inner tubes.  If you don’t your tyres will deflate within minutes as the air will escape from the holes where the spokes are fitted.  Purchase tyres to suit the wheels you are using.  Cross ply’s look more period but radial tyres can also be fitted. If you have purchased your wheels from MWS they can supply you with an information sheet detailing tyre fitting and balancing.

Remember no radials on the front if you use cross ply on the rear. OK the other way round though.

Fitting front mudguard (cycle wing) stays.

The car must have its ride height set correctly before attaching cycle wings as the wings move around the wheel as the suspension moves up and down.

The stays bolt to the welded brackets on the hub uprights.  The front vertical stay uses two fixings and the rearmost horizontal one uses one fixing. Drill holes when position is finalised and secure to the hub brackets with bolts and locking nuts.  We use M8.  Allow about 40 mm clearance between stay end and tyre. (see illustration)

It is normal to have to “tweak” the shape of the stays slightly in order to obtain a perfect fit.




Fitting GRP cycle wings to stays.

We use loads of silicone sealant to provide a nice cushion for the GRP to rest on the stays.  Silicone sealant sticks to GRP like s--t to a blanket.  Some people (we) just use loads of it to fix the wings and dispense with bolts.  Drill the ends of each stay as appropriate, then put a good dollop of silicone on the top of each bracket.  (Best to do this after painting to avoid the “silicone = no paint” problem).

Position wings on the brackets and clamp or rest loosely in position.  Leave for 24 hours  to cure.  When cured, if using bolts as well, drill through wings using previously drilled holes in the stays as a guide.  Beware as you break through the GRP as you will be drilling through from the “wrong” side, and you may chip the gel coat layer.  Secure with self locking nuts and bolts. 

Steering Column.

The (modified) Citrśn steering column fits into the car rather like it did on the donor.  Ensure the bottom of the column is fully home on the splines and the clamp (from the donor) is used to secure the column.   YOU MUST FIT THIS CLAMP – VERY IMPORTANT!

We will have modified the upper Westfield column complete with its steering lock. We no longer modify the whole old Citroen column, nor supply the old style bearings etc. We do require the whole column from your donor car.



Gear linkage.

The gear lever on the gear box top will need shortening to 5 ˝”" (130mm) overall (see illustration below).


Cut gear rod as shown and lengthen using round tube provided by us.  Be sure to keep orientation of ends of rod the same (see illustrations below). 



You can fasten together using small screws but a small weld is neater and more secure.  We can do this weld for you at no cost when you collect your kit provided everything is cut to length prior.  You will need to make a hole in the front bulk head to clear the gear rod.


Bolt the outer tube of the gear linkage (original donor part) to the small bracket underneath the scuttle (see illustration below).



Check that you have 4 gears (5 including reverse) and that they can all be selected.  You may need to depress the clutch if at standstill.


Foot Brake.

We recommend replacing all brake pipes as a matter of course.  You can either buy Citrśn after market items with the rubber seals and small bore tube or use our special brake pipe adapters and ordinary metric, UK car type, brake pipes and connectors, flexibles etc.  The latter are much cheaper.    See workshop manual for details of the 2CV braking system.

If using the Citrśn “curly” rear pipes, then block off one hole in the central “y” piece (mounted on the rear axle cross tube) using a standard M8 x 1.25 bolt and some PTFE thread tape to seal.  Make sure all pipes are adequately supported to prevent cracking with vibration with the obvious disastrous results.  We dispense with the Citrśn curly pipes inside the rear axle cross tube and use a flexible pipe to the rear mounted onto the two brackets which we can weld in place to your axle tube. Be sure that the rear arm can move through its full arc and that the flexible pipe does not twist, kink or rub.

We also use a flexible from the master cylinder to gearbox top/brake calliper.  Better than the Citrśn method of another curly pipe at the front.

Text Box: WARNING.
 If your brakes have green cylinders, (all front disc braked models) make sure you use only LHM fluid.  More details in workshop manual.  DO NOT USE ORDINARY UNIVERSAL or SILICONE TYPE BRAKE FLUID.  Green cylinders doesn’t mean that they are vegetarian or environmentally friendly! Also don’t use rubber flexible hoses with LHM fluid as they will fall apart.







IMPORTANT.  Citroen used two types of braking system,

Drum and Disc.  Drum braked cars generally use ordinary type brake fluid and disc braked cars used a mineral oil type fluid known as LHM, similar to thin green engine oil.  The two types are totally non compatible.  Do not mix them or use the wrong fluid.  LHM cylinders are coloured green although if you have a replacement  cylinder it may not be colour coded.  Always check.

If your system uses LHM fluid use only Teflon/stainless steel flexible hoses as LHM fluid will rot rubber ones.  The good news is that LHM fluid does not absorb water and therefore the cylinders do not corrode.

Fitting our special brake pipe adapters.

The adapters allow you to dispense with the difficult to fit and expensive Citroen curly brake pipes and the rest of the rusty system fitted to your donor car and replace the lot with inexpensive and readily available Cupro-Nickel metric brake pipe with proper flexibles.

The adapters simply fit into each Citroen brake pipe hole and allow the use of standard metric brake pipe fittings. You may already have a pipe flaring tool to make the end your self although this service is available at reasonable cost at many motorists shops.

To fit the adapters first remove the Citroen threaded gland nut and fish out the little rubber seal with a small sharp object.  Do not leave this rubber seal in place – it is not needed and will cause a blockage if left in place.  Using a small amount of PTFE tape, fit the adapter in place.   Do not over tighten the adapter.

Fit the new metric brake pipes in the normal way but ensure that you hold the body of the adapter in place with a spanner to stop it turning while you tighten up the pipe fitting.

Do not allow the adapter to take the brake pipe tightening force or you may damage the cylinder threads.

The brake pipe needs a “single flare” on the end.  It should look like a little acorn.  If it looks like an open ended funnel, then this is a double flare which is incorrect.  You can also use an M10 banjo bolt with two copper washers or the end of a flexible brake hose with a short thread and male taper seat.  The long thread “bulkhead type” hose ends can be used but stick out a little too far.  The tapered end of the hose end should bottom and seal in the hole before the shoulder hits the adapter..  If your don’t, or if you are in any doubt, fit a copper washer.

The following illustration shows a one of our adapters being used with a flexible brake pipe and Banjo fitting.

Hand brake.

Make up a handbrake link rod using the 12mm x 3mm flat bar provided. The finished length needs to be 558mm (22") between the end holes although this dimension can change if you have an “unusual” chassis or a drum braked car – check first.

Bolt the ratchet mounting plate (having cut from under the dash of your donor) under the scuttle on the plate provided using nuts and bolts or weld (see illustration, page 39).  Make sure that the ratchet mounting lines up with the operating lever which is bolted to the Citrśn chassis.  Make hole in bulkhead (see illustration, next page) to clear linkage.  Attach extended rod to handbrake mechanism using clevis pins and “R” clips as on the donor or high tensile bolts with self locking nuts.


Fitting the optional BRA stainless steel/Teflon flexible brake pipe set.

These are top quality pipes and should outlast the car!  Please take care when fitting them.  The pipes must be used with our brake pipe adapters as detailed previously.  You will need one adapter for each brake pipe hole. Usually: Master cylinder = 2, front calipers = 3 (the bleed nipple does not need one), rear wheel cylinder = 1.  So you will need 6. 

You will find in your brake pipe kit:

          3 hoses:   1 short with M10 banjo’s at each end    - front caliper to front caliper

                          1 long with M10 banjo’s at each end     - Master cylinder to calliper

                          1 medium with M10 male at each end   - Rear axle tube to arm.


          Plus:         4 X M10 banjo bolts

                          8 X M10 copper washers

                          2 X M10 lock nuts


Use copper washers on each side of the banjo bolts and make sure that the hose does not twist or kink when tightening the bolt.  Hold the banjo with a spanner or grips.

Note:   If using banjo hose ends: We have found some variation in the thickness of copper washers and banjo bolts.  The bolt may bottom before the copper washers seal.  If this happens simply file approximately 2mm off the end of the banjo bolt threads.

The rear flexible pipe goes between the two brackets (one on the axle tube and one on the arm).  When connecting to metal brake pipe ensure there is no twisting or kinking.  Use two spanners. 

You may need to put an intentional slight twist in the pipe to make sure it does not chafe on the arm as it moves up and down.  Try the arm in fully up and fully down positions with the suspension tie rod disconnected to make sure that all is OK.

Speedometer Cable Fitting.

The original Citroen speedo cable will be too short for your car. We have available a special, longer cable which will connect gearbox to the  instrument.

Fuel system.

The fuel tank fits in an obvious position on the top bulkhead just in front of the scuttle.  (see illustration, page 27) It is better to secure the scuttle in position before fitting the fuel tank.  The fuel tank can be one of the last items to be fitted.

Drill holes in the fuel tank flanged and through the top bulkhead and bolt fuel tank in place using M6 bolts and self locking nuts.  Strips of rubber or dense closed cell foam under the tank flanges is a good idea. The tank can be placed in any position on the top bulkhead.   An inline fuel filter is a very good idea.

We cover our fuel line with nylon braid and cover the ends with heat shrink tube. If you’re really flush use stainless steel over braid or stainless steel/Teflon hoses. 

We use a chrome 2” Monza screw fitting flip top cap (vented), onto a chrome flange (all available from S&J Motors or Europa – telephone numbers at end).  Drill holes to suit and use self tapping screws or tap M4 holes.  Use blue hylomar to seal the flange to the tank, not silicone!

You can fit the 2CV fuel gauge sender unit if required.  You will need to make a suitable size hole in the top of the tank for this.  Fix in place with self tapping screws or M4 bolts.  Again use some sealer.  The fuel outlet on the sender will need to be blocked.  We crimp the internal pipe a few times, put some Blue Hylomar down the outlet and crimp this too or fit a suitable bolt into the tube end.

We highly recommend that you fit a fuel cut off tap on the outlet from the tank.  These only cost about Ł5 and are well worth the investment.  The tap will make your engine safer to work on (remember the fuel will be gravity fed to the pump) and will add a little security.  You insurance company will appreciate this too!  Fuel taps are available from us, please ask.


A few suggestions.

This section is put here because there was a convenient blank space in the manual which we could usefully fill.  Full details of the 2CV engine can be found in your work shop manual. 

We suggest replacing the steel Citroen cylinder head oil pipes at an early stage of driving as they can crack with vibration after the fan case is removed. We can supply a flexible kit at reasonable cost – looks good too!  See next section, page 46, for details.

The oil cooler can remain in its original position, or you can move it.  We moved ours ‘cos we had nothing to do one weekend!! 

If you use our stainless steel exhaust system you will need an alternator bracket and will need to move the oil cooler.  We have available a small oil cooler re-locating bracket and an alternator mounting bracket, both made for the job and not expensive.

If using standard carburettor, use the throttle return spring bracket supplied with your kit to hook return spring on to.  The bracket will need a little filing in order to clear the pump body and you will need to drill suitable mounting holes.  (see illustration below)  

The engine breather/filler should be changed every 30,000 miles or so. If your engine leaks oil change this. They also tend to come loose too. Make sure the bolts are tight.

We modify an additional Monza fuel filler cap and use this on top of the oil filler.

If you do this be sure not to damage any of the internal parts and don’t allow any bits of metal (when cutting) to fall inside. You will need to solder the modified Monza mounting flange in place in the neck of the filler. 

Fitting the optional BRA flexible cylinder head oil feed pipe kit.

The kit contains the following:

1  long flexible oil pipe with a 10mm banjo on one end and an 8mm banjo on the other.

1  short flexible oil pipe with the same fittings as on the long pipe.

1  BRA special M7 banjo bolt.

2  8mm copper washers.

2  10mm copper washers.

1  10mm copper washer with a large outside diameter.

Remove the Citroen steel pipes and banjo bolts.  Keep the Citroen copper washers for reuse and keep the banjo bolts from the cylinder heads.  Discard the banjo bolt from the crankcase as this is replaced with the special bolt supplied in the kit.   Note that the cylinder head banjo’s have small holes and the crankcase banjo has a large hole.  See workshop manual for details.  Do not mix the banjo bolts up.

You can re-use the Citroen copper washers again by annealing them.  See tip at top of page.

Make sure that everything is clean before assembly.  Blow through all the pipes and the banjo bolts.

The 10mm banjo ends of the flexible pipes go to the special long BRA crankcase bolt (piggy back 2-up).  The 8mm banjo bolt ends go to the cylinder head using the original Citroen banjo bolts.

Cylinder head connection. Use Citroen M7 copper washer under cylinder head banjo bolt head and new M8 washer between the banjo bolt and cylinder head.

Crankcase connection. Use small M10 washer under BRA banjo bolt head and between piggy backed banjo’s.  Use large diameter 8mm washer between BRA banjo bolt and crankcase.

Do not over tighten as the bolts only go into alloy. Ensure that the flexible pipes do not twist or kink.  Check for oil leaks immediately after assembly and when the engine is hot.  Ensure that the pipes do not rub on anything as the engine vibrates.

Fitting the optional BRA crankcase oil pipe adapters.

These allow you to re-route the oil feed to and from the oil cooler using flexible rubber oil hose.

To fit the adapters simply remove the oil cooler from the crankcase and replace with  the adapters. Use some PTFE tape to ensure a good seal.  You can then use suitable flexible hose to re-locate the oil cooler.  There are many types of flexible pipe available for this.  Ensure that the pipe you choose is suitable for hot oil.  For a really smart look you could try using braided pipe or ordinary pipe with over braid.

Always use good quality hose clips to secure the hose ends to the adapters and the oil cooler pipes.

IMPORTANT – The oil is under high pressure.  Ensure the hose clips are good quality and are very tight.  If an oil pipe comes off when the engine is running you will lose ALL the engine oil in seconds. 


Choice of headlamps is entirely up to you but 5 ˝ half inch "Bates" headlamps are available from MPS or Europa and look quite good even if a little small.  Good quality 7 inch headlamps can be purchased from Stafford Vehicle Components

We use Model A lights on the rear (from Stafford Vehicle Components) and  small posh motorcycle type indicators on the front.


Important notes on wiring your CV3.

Bearing in mind that most car fires are started as a result of poor wiring, it is very important to pay particular attention to this part of the build.

Upon inspection of the Citrśn wiring loom you will notice that all wires are colour coded green or yellow (coded??).  It is therefore easy to make wrong connections. Also, Citrśn had a habit of making very strange joints in the loom and covering these up with an abundance of heat shrink and sticky tape.  Any electrical problems are extremely difficult to trace as a result of the make up of the loom.  A green wire will go in at one end and two will come out of the other, having found a yellow friend along the way (there is the odd  blue wire too.

We manufacture a special wiring loom for the CV3.  Thin wall wire is used throughout in order to produce a smaller loom (all major car manufacturers now use thin wall cable).  As well as wires for all standard accessories, lights etc., we include wires for additional equipment such as oil gauge, tachometer, horn relay, and wiring to an eight-way fuse holder.  We even include a couple of spare wires for any future accessory fitting!   The loom is supplied with a full description of each colour and a schematic diagram which will help with diagnosing any future electrical queries/problems you may encounter.  With our loom you can complete the installation of the wiring in less than an hour, ready for connections to be made.  Well worth consideration. 

Our loom is supplied with an 8-way fuse holder, fuses, terminals, connectors, grommets fixings, etc. 

Cable/loom routing must be carefully considered.  Keep all wiring away from hot or moving parts and use suitable grommets or similar protection for cables passing through bulkheads etc. Our wiring loom comes with a sketch indicating where to drill holes and includes grommets to finish them off.  

If you have any doubts regarding the wiring or electrical system consult a qualified auto electrician or us.

Where you do need to alter and extend the existing wiring loom from the car, we can supply you with an excellent range of electrical connectors and ancillaries.  In general however, where wires do need extending or modifying we prefer soldered connectors covered in heat shrink tubing as these are more reliable and permanent if somewhat more difficult to dismantle!

The battery can be mounted either under the bonnet or behind the rear seat under the rear cover. This latter position is better as it is away from the fuel tank.  DO NOT RUN THE BATTERY CABLE THROUGH THE BODY FRAME.  Clip it to the chassis and ensure it is not trapped by anything.  Use plastic fixings and grommets. 

If using a rear-mounted battery it's probably better mounted on the passenger side as the car will sometimes be driven without a passenger, but will never be driven without a driver, better put the battery on the passenger side.  Helps to balance the weight.

Lay the wiring loom out on the floor and ascertain the best position to locate the various items such as fuse box, control unit, starter etc.  Fasten the various units in position according to the length of the wiring making it run as neat as possible.  For the ultimate neatness the units can be positioned under the scuttle or behind the dash -  this is awkward but well worth the effort.  We fix ours all under the scuttle, and just look how neat the under bonnet area is in the picture. The 8 way fuse box (if you are using it) can fit in a hole cut in the front the of the scuttle.

Wiring to the front headlights needs to be duplicated and routed down each side front body rail to where the headlamps are located on their mounting flanges.  We put multi pin plugs where the wires pass through the front bulkhead so that we can easily remove the engine bay sides, complete with lights, without having to disconnect loads of cables. These plugs are not supplied with our loom but are available cheaply.

Duplicate the side light wires as for headlight wires and route down each side front body rail to the headlamp unit which will usually contain a side light.  If the headlight units you have chosen do not contain side lights then you will have to arrange these separately.  

Be sure to provide an adequate earth for all lighting, etc. 

The setting of the headlight dip and main beam can be left until the car is on the road and finished. 

Route the appropriate wires for the left and right indicators (also having been extended) down each chassis or body rail to where you have decided to position front indicators.  Although we favour mudguard top indicator units for looks, these necessitate a feed and earth wire along the suspension arm.  The cable must be of a flexible type particularly where the suspension arm moves up and down, and the hub turns.  Alternatively you may wish to use motorcycle type indicators mounted on fabricated brackets underneath the headlamps or alongside the front number plate.

Extend the rear side light,  brake light  and indicator wires to the back of the car and connect to the back lights you have chosen.  Fit fog and reversing lights.  A high level brake light, fitted behind the spare wheel (if spoked) is a good idea though.  Don’t forget a good earth for all the rear lights.

Be sure to route cables where they will not get pulled at or crushed and be sure to make adequate and clean earth connections. 

If needed, extend the various wires for ignition switch and warning lights etc. through the dash to connect to the switches of your choice.

If you swap and change wire colours always make good notes to aid future fault tracing.  

The ignition coil is mounted under the bonnet on the bracket supplied with your kit.  This is bolted to the two top bell housing nuts or you can mount  it on the scuttle top, in which case you will need longer HT leads. If using our bracket, the angled arm goes to the LH side to clear the throttle cable.



Although you can use the existing car horn you may find that twin trumpet air horns give a better blast and warning of your approach.  There are also many other types of “louder” horns available.  It is worth having a look around at shows for these. For the MSVA test though, just fit a “standard” horn.

Instrumentation and dashboard.

Choice of dashboard material can be aluminium, solid wood or veneer covered plywood . See GRP Bodywork

The essence of the car being of a period design is that instrumentation is generally kept to a minimum.  In fact you'll find the majority of 1930's cars only have a speedometer.  The scuttle top can be removed to provide access to the cabling and wiring behind the dashboard.  Try and route speedo and any other control cables in as straight a line as possible and ensure that where any wiring or cables pass through the scuttle front, that they pass through a grommet or other suitable protection to prevent chafing. 

Front and rear number plates.

Pay particular attention to the legalities of the type of number plate you need to use.  If your car is registered with a Q then it must have the yellow rear and white front reflective number plates. 

The simplest way to mount the rear number plate is on the chassis extensions provided to support the spare wheel.  A simple aluminium or stainless steel plate can be made up to take both the number plate and rear lights.  Ensure the rear lights have an adequate earth.  We use Ford Model A rear lights from Stafford Vehicle Components on our cars. BEWARE! Some of these Model A type lights do not come as stop/tail units.  Check before buying.  You will need reflectors. We put them on the rear of the front cycle wings.  2 inch with chrome bezels look nice and are legal. 

The front number plate can be fixed directly to the front chassis rail or you can use our optional front moulding.  Grind GRP away if necessary to provide adequate clearance for the engine when it moves in its mountings.  The front number plate can be attached to this using suitable nylon nuts and bolts which are coloured to match the number plate.  Use similar nuts and bolts for rear number plate.  Many builders have made their own front number plate surround using aluminium or similar material.  Experiment, it may pay off.

Bonnet and nosecone.

Retrieve the bonnet and nosecone from its previous safe hiding place and attach to the car using the previously made holes.  Use your own choice of bonnet catch.  Attach these in a suitable position at the front and rear end of the bonnet.

Please note that there is approximately a 10mm to 12mm gap along the length of the bonnet bottom which serves to ventilate some hot air from the engine.  This must not be blocked or closed up.

After painting (if you haven't already painted) glue a soft rubber strip along the recesses in which the bonnet rests to prevent rattling.  The BRA badge can be attached to the nose cone section of the car after final painting using epoxy resin, panel adhesive or other suitable glue.  Make sure that the surface is thoroughly abraded to ensure that the badge sticks properly. 

Seats, Tonneau cover and seat belts.

The BRA seat back and squab simply places in position. Some builders have installed bucket seats on runners. 

Fit the tonneau fasteners from the center line working outwards having first warmed the material to ensure that it stretches into position and does not sag.  We use Tenax  fixings which, although expensive, are probably the best you can get.  Other suitable fixings such as press studs, lift the dot’s, etc., can be used.  Use plenty of your stock of patience when fitting the tonneau cover.  Fix one side at a time and make sure that the tonneau cover is stretched slightly.  We use approximately 26 fixings in our tonneau covers.

Fasten seat belts to the mountings provided using high tensile steel bolts.

Anthony Stafford has some very reasonably priced seat belts.

Static belts are easier to fit although many builders have installed inertia reel type.


The internal trimming of your car is obviously to suit your own personal choice.  Many builders trim all of the interior themselves  and suitable materials can be found at most of the kit car and classic car shows.  There are also some specialist suppliers.  See Yellow Pages, Car Trimmers section for information. This is the most important area in our view and one that can easily let your car down, and our reputation.

When we build our own cars we fit the BRA carpet set and trim the internal rails etc with some colour co-coordinated vinyl or carpet.   When fitting carpets we glue in place the side carpets and any trim on the rails with a suitable contact adhesive.  Floor carpets are best held in place with press studs or similar fixings in order to facilitate easy removal for cleaning or drying after you have been caught out by the weather.

You can make armrests from timber, aluminum or padded vinyl. We have our own padded cockpit coaming system available.

Exhaust system.

You can use the Citrśn exhaust system in its entirety without modification apart from removing the heat exchangers from the front manifold pipes and slightly re-bending the long pipe.   Mount the system on rubber bobbins that are manufactured for the purpose and are available from most motor factors.  The tailpipe can be cut and shortened to suit.  The exhaust system goes in virtually the same position as on the original car with the silencer under the body parallel with the chassis.  Only the mountings are different. The rear part of the heat exchangers can actually be retained if you wanted to cobble together a heating system (try using a 12v fan of the type used to cool electronic instrument cases) 

Some builders have actually fitted the original exhaust pipe along the outside of the car (near side) and this can look effective, especially if cleaned up and painted (use proper high temperature paint) or chrome plated.

Don’t be tempted to retain the 2CV heat exchangers, fan, etc. and extend the front of your CV3 to accommodate all of this.  We have seen other builders do this and we think it looks awful.  Remember, one day you may want to sell your CV3.  If it looks good you will sell it easily. Dispose of the fan, cowl, heat exchangers, etc.

If using our 2-piece stainless steel system, use rubber bobbins to isolate the exhaust silencers from the body frame. You will have to make some small brackets for the rear of the pipes (silencers).  We don’t supply these as we find that builders want to be individual.  Some mount the silencer straight onto the side panel (use some re-enforcing on the inside of the panel as the aluminium will break if you don’t.  Some make a bracket which passes through the side panel and fixes to the bottom body frame rail.  Some make a fancy bracket which mounts under the car and comes around the bottom of the side panel.  If you get stuck call us and we will see what we can do.  ALWAYS USE RUBBER BOBBINS WHEN MOUNTING THE SILENCER TO ISOLATE VIBRATION.


You can use  “Brooklands” aero screens (available from Stafford Vehicle Components). Do not fit aeroscreens until you have passed the MSVA test. You do not require any form of screen at all for both MSVA and MOT tests.

NB. When fitting screens remember to fit large washers underneath.  There can be considerable force on screens at speed.  Large as possible washers will prevent the bolts pulling through the GRP.  Try making your own by simply drilling the appropriate size hole in a piece of steel or aluminium.  We use pieces of steel sheet, approx. 2 inches square, under each bolt when we fit our screens.

A few notes on Vehicle Identification Numbers (VIN).

Your newly built CV3 will need to have a 17 digit VIN stamped onto the chassis and also on a suitable plate fixed to the body of the car. If you are using the original chassis you obviously retain the original VIN.  This makes life a little easier!

Alternatively, we can  issue a VIN number or your local VRO can issue one.  If we issue the VIN you will be able to stamp it onto the chassis at an early stage in the build.  If you have insured your car during building this will act as an identity for your insurance company.

The VIN must not be confused with the 6 digit chassis number which we also issue.  The chassis number is purely a reference number for us.   We incorporate the 6 digit chassis number into any 17 digit VIN’s which we issue.  

Confused?  Don’t be.  Basically, you must stamp the 17 digit VIN onto the chassis in order to comply with the law.  It must be stamped onto the chassis and not the body work, which is removable. It should be stamped in a position, which can be seen, on the front offside of the car. You will not be able to register your car without a VIN number being stamped.  Your MOT tester will also be looking for the VIN.  No VIN = No MOT! 

The chassis plate can be fixed to any part of the body work.  We fix ours on the front of the scuttle near to where the steering column goes through. 

Remember to use leaded fuel (kinder on valves and seats although unleaded heads are available at reasonable cost from ECAS).

Lead replacement fuel should be used if leaded is not available.